Krayan is perhaps the only region in Borneo that has not, and is collectively being preserved from, the meddling hands of humans engaging in deforestation. The author stands atop the highlands of the Heart of Borneo, approximately 15 kilometers from the village of Ba' Binuang.
By Masri Sareb Putra, M.A.
Borneo’s forests, particularly in Kalimantan, face severe threats from industrial palm oil, logging, and mining, leading to habitat loss, biodiversity decline, and displacement of indigenous communities. International support from organizations like WWF and USAID, focused on indigenous empowerment and community-led ecotourism, is crucial to protect areas like Krayan and ensure sustainable management of Borneo’s natural and cultural heritage.
Borneo stands as one of the world’s greatest natural treasures, the third-largest island on Earth, shared among Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Indonesian Borneo, or Kalimantan, spans roughly two-thirds of the island and harbors extraordinary biodiversity.
Dense rainforests, ancient peat swamps, towering dipterocarp trees, and crystal-clear rivers create a living museum of tropical ecology. This region is home to some of the planet’s most iconic and endangered wildlife: orangutans swinging through the canopy, pygmy elephants roaming riverbanks, proboscis monkeys with their distinctive noses, sun bears climbing trees, and clouded leopards stalking silently in the undergrowth.
Cultural immersion is a major draw, as visitors stay in traditional Dayak longhouses, learn about indigenous crafts, and witness age-old rituals. Places like Tanjung Puting National Park in Central Kalimantan and the Derawan Islands in East Kalimantan have become well-known for their wildlife and marine biodiversity.
Community-based ecotourism models have gained traction across Kalimantan. In West Kalimantan’s Kapuas Hulu region, local cooperatives manage homestays and guide tours, channeling tourism revenue directly to villages. In Central Kalimantan’s Sebangau National Park, former logging concessions have been transformed into protected areas where ex-loggers now work as eco-guides. These initiatives not only provide sustainable income but also foster pride in natural heritage and reduce pressure on forests from illegal logging or slash-and-burn agriculture.
The Heart of Borneo initiative, launched in 2007 by WWF and the governments of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei, aims to conserve 24 million hectares of highland forest across the island. Ecotourism plays a central role in this transboundary effort, demonstrating that protecting nature can generate economic value without destroying it. When done right, Borneo’s ecotourism can become a powerful tool against deforestation, offering an alternative to the destructive palm oil and mining industries that have claimed millions of hectares in recent decades.
The Pristine Natural Areas in Krayan, North Kalimantan
In the far northeast of Kalimantan lies the Krayan region, a hidden gem that remains one of Borneo’s most pristine and least-disturbed frontiers. Situated in Nunukan Regency near the border with Sabah, Malaysia, Krayan sits within the vast Kayan Mentarang National Park and forms part of the elevated highlands known as the Heart of Borneo. This remote plateau is characterized by cool, misty montane rainforests, dramatic waterfalls, terraced rice fields carved into steep hillsides, and ancient cloud forests that have stood for millennia.
The landscape is breathtaking: lush green valleys, the winding Krayan River, limestone caves, and ridges cloaked in moss and orchids. Unlike the lowland areas of Borneo that have suffered heavy deforestation, Krayan’s isolation has preserved its ecosystems remarkably well. The region hosts a rich array of flora and fauna, including rare species of birds, amphibians, and plants adapted to high altitudes. Traditional Dayak Lundayeh villages such as Pa’ Padi, Long Layu’, and Pa’ Upan dot the area, where longhouses and sacred sites reflect centuries of indigenous stewardship.
Access to Krayan is still challenging. Visitors often fly into small airstrips or travel by rugged four-wheel-drive vehicles, which helps maintain the area’s untouched feel. This remoteness has allowed community-based ecotourism to flourish organically. Local guides lead multi-day treks through primary forest, across hanging bridges, and to hidden waterfalls. Homestays provide simple but authentic accommodations, and visitors participate in traditional activities like rice harvesting or making handicrafts.
Since the early 2000s, WWF has worked closely with Krayan communities, training locals as professional guides, developing sustainable tourism protocols, and promoting cross-border cooperation with neighboring Sabah. These efforts have positioned Krayan as a shining example of how indigenous knowledge and modern ecotourism can protect nature while benefiting local people.
Threats from Deforestation and Oligarchic Interests
Despite its relative safety, Krayan is not immune to the broader threats facing Borneo. Across Kalimantan, deforestation has accelerated due to industrial-scale palm oil plantations, commercial logging, and mining operations. Powerful business conglomerates, often backed by influential oligarchs, control vast concessions and prioritize profit over environmental protection. These interests have converted millions of hectares of rainforest into monoculture plantations, fragmenting habitats, displacing wildlife, and increasing risks of flooding and landslides.
In North Kalimantan, infrastructure projects such as roads, dams, and mining concessions are creeping closer to Krayan. While the region’s highlands offer some natural protection, the pressure is mounting. Global demand for palm oil continues to drive expansion, and companies frequently bypass sustainability commitments through complex supply chains or shadow operations. Indigenous communities often find their traditional lands targeted, leading to land grabs, loss of cultural heritage, and erosion of self-sufficiency.
Without strong safeguards, Krayan’s pristine forests could face the same fate as many lowland areas, where biodiversity has plummeted and indigenous livelihoods have been disrupted. The stakes are high: losing these last remaining untouched areas would be a tragedy for global conservation and for the Dayak people who have protected them for generations.
The Need for International Support: WWF, WHO, USAID, and Indigenous Empowerment
Protecting Krayan’s unique ecotourism potential requires active support from international organizations and a strong commitment to indigenous rights. WWF has been a key partner in Krayan for over two decades, helping communities establish eco-tourism enterprises, monitor forest health, and advocate for land rights. These programs empower local people to manage their resources sustainably while earning income from tourism.
USAID has also played an important role through projects like the LESTARI initiative, which promotes sustainable landscapes and alternative livelihoods in Kalimantan. By funding capacity-building, community mapping, and ecotourism infrastructure, USAID helps ensure that conservation efforts benefit local residents directly.
Although WHO’s primary focus is health, its broader environmental health agenda supports communities facing the consequences of deforestation, such as air pollution from land-clearing fires or increased exposure to zoonotic diseases. Collaborative efforts involving health, environment, and development organizations can address these interconnected challenges.
The most critical need is for sustained international backing of indigenous land rights and community-led governance. WWF, USAID, and other partners must continue to provide technical assistance, funding, and global advocacy to counter oligarchic pressures. By strengthening local institutions, promoting fair benefit-sharing from ecotourism, and enforcing no-deforestation policies, these organizations can help Krayan remain a model of harmonious development.
In the end, the future of Borneo’s last pristine wilderness depends on empowering the first nations who have cared for it longest. With thoughtful international support, Krayan can thrive as a beacon of hope, where nature, culture, and sustainable tourism coexist for generations to come.
