Balai Karangan’s Heirloom Durian: The Pride of West Kalimantan

Durian lovers, head to Beduai, Sanggau, West Borneo harvest. Doc. the writer.

 By Rangkaya Bada

SEKAYAM, WEST KALIMANTAN – If you’re a true durian lover, this week might be the perfect time to head to Indonesia’s westernmost part of Borneo. In the small towns of Beduai and Balai Karangan, Sanggau Regency, local farmers are in the midst of their long-awaited durian harvest season.

But what’s drawing the most attention isn’t just the abundance of fruit; it’s the durian tembawang, an heirloom, organically grown variety that has survived for generations.

A Flavor Beyond Compare

The durian tembawang is unlike any other. Its rich aroma, deep yellow flesh, and clean, worm-free texture make it stand out among Southeast Asia’s finest. What truly sets it apart, though, is its complex flavor spectrum: some are sweet and buttery, others slightly bitter, and a few delightfully dry and crisp. The variety comes not from hybridization or modern cultivation, but from nature’s own diversity.

“This durian is not a product of selective breeding or grafting,” said Kulanus Aho, a durian grower in Beduai, on Thursday (Nov. 6, 2025). 

“Every tree here grows naturally, passed down from our ancestors. That’s why no two fruits ever taste the same.”

A Cross-Border Delicacy

Balai Karangan and Beduai have long been known as the heart of West Kalimantan’s durian belt. Their fruits are so prized that many are sold across the border in Malaysia, fetching prices of around 10 ringgit each. For many enthusiasts, that’s a small price to pay for a taste of authenticity.

Local traders say Malaysian buyers often recognize the fruit instantly, not just by its fragrance, but by its deep, golden hue. Once cracked open, the durian’s soft flesh releases an aroma that’s both wild and refined, reflecting the untamed spirit of Borneo’s rainforests.

A Living Heritage of the Dayak People

Beyond its flavor, the durian tembawang tells a deeper story of the Dayak people, the Indigenous inhabitants of Borneo. Each tree represents generations of sustainable farming, where forest and culture coexist. Farmers still rely on natural cycles, refusing chemical fertilizers or hybrid seeds; a testament to their commitment to preserving what their ancestors began.

Today, the durian of Balai Karangan stands as more than just a fruit: it’s a living emblem of identity, tradition, and pride. In an era when commercial hybrids dominate Southeast Asia’s fruit markets, this heirloom durian reminds the world that authenticity, once lost, cannot be easily replicated.