Ahau : A Culinary Landmark in the Heart of Pontianak

Unassuming from the outside, unforgettable on the inside — Restoran Ahau remains a Pontianak favorite
Unassuming from the outside, unforgettable on the inside: Restoran Ahau remains a Pontianak favorite.

PONTIANAK -  BORNEOTRAVELVisitors arriving in Pontianak, whether for work assignments or weekend escapes, often hear the same advice from locals: explore the food scene along Gajah Mada and Setia Budi. Together, these two streets form the culinary spine of the city, lined with eateries that reflect the deep cultural influence of the Tiociu community.

From early morning until late at night, the aroma of stir-fried vegetables, simmering broths, and roasted meats drifts into the open air, creating an atmosphere that has become a hallmark of this riverside city.

Amid this crowded constellation of restaurants, one establishment consistently draws unwavering praise. Restoran Ahau, situated on Setia Budi Street, may look unassuming from the outside, but its reputation tells an entirely different story.

Generations of Pontianak residents have grown up tasting its dishes, and many visitors make it a point to stop by. What sets the restaurant apart is not its décor or its size. It is the consistency of its flavors, preserved carefully by the man whose name the restaurant bears.

Inside Ahau’s Kitchen

To many regulars, Ahau is not only the face of the restaurant but also its engine. He prepares the ingredients personally, handling tasks most modern kitchens might outsource. 

Two dishes in particular define the identity of the restaurant: freshly made pork sausage and hekeng, the Tiociu-style bean curd roll filled with seasoned minced pork.

Hekeng and cap cai soup are the signature dishes of Restoran Ahau.
Hekeng and cap cai soup are the signature dishes of Restoran Ahau.

Every day, long before the first customers arrive, Ahau begins his routine. He grinds the meat, blends spices, and shapes each sausage. For the hekeng, he folds the seasoned filling into thin sheets and steams them until firm, later frying each portion to order. Customers often remark that the flavor remains as familiar as ever, a testament to his steady hand and commitment to craft.

Ahau learned these techniques from his family, who had long been known among Pontianak’s Chinese community for their pork-based specialties. Although he inherited the recipes, he refined them through years of experimentation. The result is a distinct taste that has become inseparable from the restaurant’s identity.

A Commitment to Authentic Tiociu Cooking

Restoran Ahau has built its reputation by staying true to traditional Pontianak Chinese cooking, especially the flavors rooted in the Tiociu heritage. The dishes are not modified for convenience or adjusted to suit modern dietary trends. Pork remains central, forming the base of the restaurant’s signature offerings and shaping the overall character of its menu.

For many families of Chinese descent in Pontianak, eating at Ahau evokes memories of home-cooked meals prepared by older generations. 

Visitors and food lovers watch as Ahau prepares his signature hekeng.
Visitors and food lovers watch as Ahau prepares his signature hekeng.

Customers often come not only to enjoy the food but also to reconnect with flavors that feel tied to their personal histories. Some even place large orders of hekeng during festive seasons, packing them carefully to be taken to other cities for celebrations.

The restaurant’s steadfast focus on tradition has made it more than a dining spot. For many, it is a cultural touchstone in a city where communities and culinary practices intertwine closely.

A Popular Stop for Locals and Travelers

During peak hours, Restoran Ahau fills quickly. Office workers stop in for a quick lunch, families gather for shared meals in the evening, and travelers often join the crowd after hearing about the place from locals. The atmosphere is lively but unpretentious, with the clatter of plates blending with the steady rhythm of kitchen activity.

One factor that keeps diners returning is the restaurant’s commitment to affordability. Despite the amount of labor involved in preparing each dish, Ahau maintains prices that are accessible to a wide range of patrons. Customers appreciate that good food remains within reach, even as other eateries raise their prices.

The handmade pork sausage and hekeng continue to be the restaurant’s most popular choices. With no preservatives and a daily production cycle, both deliver a depth of flavor that industrial versions simply cannot match. For many customers, this is the reason they keep coming back.

Restoran Ahau endures not because of trend-driven menus or modern branding, but because it offers something far more enduring: a taste anchored in heritage, prepared with care, and served with quiet devotion.

by: Rangkaya Bada

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